DAY ONE – THE CLONE HOUSE: Ping, ping, ping! It’s no microwave but the alarm that wakes me at six. Help! I’m making a movie today. I remember the time I arrived at the set of my first movie on Day 1 and was furious when I noticed that someone had parked loads of trucks next to our location. The fury soon switched to panic when I realised the lines of vehicles were there for us – me – the film. I’m past that naivete now but there’s still a frisson of fear as I enter the clone house. There are nervous smiles and exchanges. What do you do? Nice to meet you? How will I ever remember your name? The morning goes great but I panic in the afternoon and go home with my tail between my legs. I sit alone in my room and give myself a talking to. Must try harder etc…
S Club – The Movie – September 17, 2002
D day minus 1. As I lie in bed I’m reminded of the title of a favourite Van Morrison album: “It’s too late to stop now.” At our last rehearsal I introduce the band to Joseph Adams who will play Alistair their manager – he seems quite bemused by his new charges. The day flashes by and I end my last night of freedom watching Amelie again for inspiration, laughing out loud when M. Bredoteau (or is Bretodeau) tells the fat barman that the phone box called out to him. The fat barman rolls his eyes as he rescues a pizza from the microwave: “Just like the microwave is calling to me!”
S Club – The Movie – September 16, 2002
The Production Meeting. Set in a hotel room somewhere in Barcelona we plod through what is possibly the most tedious yet important meeting we’ll have for the film. All departments are represented including our newly arrived sound chaps from London, Tim and Will, who have just finished working on a movie which is being edited by my cousin-in-law – small world. Guillermo guides us through the script scene by scene and we make sure that all the things we need to make the movie will be available for that scene: 100 extras on the day in front of the Fuller Center means 100 extra meals; much to Alan’s surprise (dismay?) a Fire Eater has been requested for the chase through old Barcelona (my fault); a motion control camera is required for scene 43; a steadicam for scene 10. It goes on and on. My day ends with the delightful task of approving four sexy outfits for Susan Sealove the beastly dame who will kidnap Alistair the band’s manager in scene 8.
S Club – The Movie – September 15, 2002
I ride into the hills that overlook the Maze where Rachel will lose her sweater (calm down lads – there’ll be a T-shirt underneath) and try and seize the moment. It is an astonishingly beautiful morning and deathly quiet. The streets were completely deserted as I set out and I heard a parrot squawking at me from one house and noticed again how strange it is that Spanish people like to drive to a nice spot and then wash their car. It makes a lot of sense when you think about it. Back in my hutch I try and focus on the shotlist – we will shoot parts of 16 scenes in the first two days. John and Guillermo are doing wonders with the schedule – I try and keep up but in truth I’m living in denial on how much we have to do. Re-read my SClub diary so far. Note to self – must stop calling people ‘valiant,’ ‘stalwart’ etc. even if it’s true. Watch this space for more imaginative character assessment of fellow crew members.
S Club – The Movie – September 14, 2002
I must start on my shot list. I must…
S Club – The Movie – September 13, 2002
We are on a technical scout when the good news arrives that my new collapsible travel bike is in Spain. The bad news is it’s still in Madrid in customs. I’m about to lose it (unreasonably as this has NOTHING to do with making a movie) when I check my machine in LA and hear from a mutual friend that Warren Zevon has been diagnosed with inoperable lung cancer. Warren’s feisty reply on hearing he will soon be arranging a personal tete a tete with St. Peter? “It’ll be a drag if I die before the new James Bond movie comes out!” Does the phrase REALITY CHECK mean anything? For the first and only time (I hope) I wish I wasn’t in Spain so I could see Mr. Zevon. After not seeing him for many years I bumped into him a month or two back and he said “Let’s get together.” His smile was wide and broad and without a trace of sadness – did he know then I wonder?
S Club – The Movie – September 12, 2002
My guitar arrives. I annoy Guillermo, astonishing Spanish AD, with some tired blues licks while he asks me important questions. How do you get a guitar players attention? Take his guitar away. Our favourite location for the hotel where SClub wake up managerless is taken away from us. Alan is very decent about breaking the news to me. I’m prepared to deal with it until I realise the last 3 hours spent working on my shot-list were wasted.
S Club – The Movie – September 11, 2002
While the rest of the world remembers I start a meeting which never ends. As everyone here smokes and I have been yacking non-stop all day my throat is raw and painful by the end but much work has been accomplished. My biggest fear is that I have made some decision today that will irrevocably alter the delicate balance on which making a movie constantly dangles.
S Club – The Movie – September 10, 2002
My bag arrives. My guitar is still missing in action.
S Club – The Movie – September 9, 2002
After 2 hours in London happy to arrive back in Barcelona – if only my bags had joined me I would have been ecstatic. John Agoglia (stalwart production manager and man of steel) did the same journey and came via Frankfurt and together we ignored our jet-lag and set off for Sitges to scout locations – this is where the Club will realise that things are not as they should be in SClub land – what Robert McKee would call the Inciting Incident.
S Club – The Movie – September 8, 2002
6 hours to pack and then dash for the airport. Watched Unfaithful on the plane and found it very disturbing – not in the least because watching Diane Lane doing it with a Frenchman while we flew high above Greenland still provided me with some ideas for the movie we’re making – which has no sex & no Frenchmen though, I can reveal here, all the SClubbers will get naked – ooh er!
S Club – The Movie – September 7, 2002
We complete first 2 days of shooting – drive-bys in LA. The long suffering SClubbers have patiently dealt with me yelling at them from a distance as they drive through town packed into the back of a Buick Skylark – the only cool car we could double in Spain. Of such things are artistic choices made! AJ and Howie from Backstreet Boys would be happy to learn that I called Rachel Hannah, Jo Tina, and Jo Rachel. It doesn’t matter what kind of band you’re in I’ll still get the names wrong!
S Club – The Movie – September 1, 2002
Week 1 pre-pro…
Monday…By 830 I’m scouting a sunny cove where SCLUB might make their first cup of tea as Act 2 unfolds. It’s a gorgeous spot and a fine morning to be taking location pix but I can’t linger as I must race back to Hollywood to meet the band for the first time. I have spent so much time studying them recently that I feel I know them already but of course they must view the meeting differently – I’m just some director person sent to bellow at them for a month!
Tuesday…A frustrating morning sorting out why it’s taking an hour to download one lousy picture from Spain on the web. The computer doctor rushes across town to rescue me and concludes instantly my DSL is in the toilet. At dance rehearsal the band are flopped on the floor like rag dolls – there is no a/c at the rehearsal room. I promise Priscilla (valiant choreographer) I will wield some directorial muscle and get them a new room. It’s not a matter of me showing off but pure selfishness – dancers are athletes, if they sweat too much they can dehydrate or chill off fast and get sick: I want my team in full health for the next six weeks.
The band and I start our first acting rehearsal and it’s a particularly important moment for me – I need to show them who’s in charge and also engage their trust for the weeks ahead. I decide to tell them what I want to achieve with the film and ask them what they want. To my delight they all express excitement about doing a movie and are refreshingly honest when we discuss who the characters of Hannah, Jon, Tina, Brad and Rachel are and how the characters differ from their own personalities.
Wednesday…We’re scouting in the South Bay by breakfast and the weather is cold and miserable – so different from Monday. My second rehearsal with the band starts well but is soon heading for disaster. I have ambitiously started showing them some exercises to help with dialogue and one by one each attempt inexplicably crashes in flames like a Russian jet at an air-show. I’m hanging on by the skin of my teeth and starting to panic. Then we do a sense memory exercise where we all imagine opening up our front door at home. How does the key feel? How does it fit in the lock? Which way does the key turn? Somehow we are soon discussing an infamously strenuous weekend in SCLUB history which culminated in the gig from hell. The band’s shoulders slump, their eyes become listless and they visibly shiver and huddle together for warmth from the terrible memory.
It’s a victory – this is the way they should feel when they approach their first dialogue scene in the movie! I’m so relieved I finish rehearsal early: quit while you’re ahead etc. But down in the parking lot I climb into my car like a defeated man – I have so much still to learn. I go home and work on my shot list. The DSL is still broken.
Thursday…I’m also making a video for SCLUB next week and spend the morning looking at clubs. Some are well thought out and fascinating – others are tawdry, smelly sheds with a bar and a sound system. In the afternoon, scouting for the movie again, I receive an excited call from my old assistant Jill. The video I directed for Chad Kroeger and Josey Scott singing “Hero” from the Spiderman Soundtrack has just won an MTV award. I’m so deep into the movie I didn’t even know the awards were on. I scroll through the cell calling all the members of the crew to share the news – it was a team effort and we all bask in our brief moment of glory.
Friday…Breakfast with Judy, my one-time acting teacher who combines her endless enthusiasm with honest and tough criticism. We discuss my near escape on Wednesday night and she let’s me know I was too ambitious. She advises me to start working on how SCLUB will play the clones and I finish breakfast excited about tonight’s rehearsal. At lunchtime I go for my medical – the Bond people want to know if I’ll make it through the coming weeks and apparently they’re optimistic. I meet Jo for the first time – she flew in last night and is still jet-lagged.
At rehearsal we all start out by jumping up and down and making stupid noises like zombies, robots and ghosts. Brad refuses to make a noise and Jo won’t stop giggling – I think they were both embarrassed – I share their pain as I’m doing a bad zombie impression too. We do some Clone improvs which start out well and get better and better. Amongst the favourite moments was Jon taking Clone Bradley to the video store – Brad wound up at the Adult Section (SURPRISE!) and Tina showing Clone Jo how to brush her teeth which was very real and touching. I make a note to include some of this work in the movie.
Saturday…It’s been a week of early starts and so I get up at 6 to get in a 22 mile ride along PCH before our script meeting at 930. I ride like the wind and so the endolphins (sic) are jumping when I finally get to meet Kim Fuller, our valiant scriptwriter, for the first time over bagels and coffee in Alan’s house. We spend 4 hours examining the script line by line and some good work gets done. It’s not till I’m racing back to Hollywood that I realize that one of the scenes we ripped out and trashed was the one I spent those hard hours storyboarding on Wednesday night. Rats!
I arrive ten minutes late for the casting session for the video in a foul temper: the room isn’t big enough, the music isn’t loud enough and I act like a prick who needs to take a large chill pill. 130 dancers later I’m energized and stunned by what appears to be a resurgence in 80’s fashion and new dance moves which seems to allow male dancers to provocatively stroke their female partners along the inner thighs. I have to admit I’ve tried it a few times myself in the past but usually got a slap in the face and a bottle of beer poured over me. Progress is a fine thing!
As I drive west into an extraordinary sunset I conclude it’s been a very useful week. But there’s no time for laurel sitting yet. This has just been the opening prologue: the time trials and the important mountain stages are still ahead.
S Club – The Movie – August 25, 2002
The waiting is over. Tomorrow work on the movie begins in earnest. The last weeks have been a rest period for nearly everyone on the cast and crew who was working on the series. Meanwhile I have been pedalling around in increasingly small circles feeling guilty about taking a break I don’t deserve and trying to prepare for a schedule which has not yet been drawn up.
What is a director to do? Well this one goes and watches a shed load of movies to see what ideas he can steal, borrow and avoid. I’ve even been inspired to invent a few of my own! From whence cometh my inspiration? Try: Amelie, The Hit, The Italian Job, Austin Powers: Goldmember, XXX, Sex And Lucia, All About My Mother, The Commitments, The Mexican, Bandits, Spy Kids, K:19, Tadpole, A Hard Days Night.
Of course you lot have no clue as to what the story is about (and I’m not about to tell you either) but you might reasonably draw this conclusion from the above list: S Club, on a quest to find a missing vintage weapon, travel by Russian submarine to Paris where they meet up with a waitress who, deciding she no longer wants to play in a soul band, hitches a ride with them in three Minis to Prague where they meet a new kind of secret agent in a Pontiac GTO who is then knocked out by some members of the London crime scene who hand them over to another secret agent with bad teeth and a Jag who takes them through time to Madrid for a meal in a restaurant with another waitress who likes to get naked a lot. After dinner they catch a train to Barcelona with a woman who’s lost her son, and all the while they are whistling Beatles songs. That might be your conclusion but you’d be wrong!
What I can tell you is that from Amelie I learnt everything I need to know about how to make a movie. The Hit told me how I should shoot Spain if I had any sense; The Italian Job showed me how to let the essence of a wonderful old city inhabit a comedy; Austin Powers showed me that clones can be believable with over the shoulder shots; XXX let me know that it’s still hip for nasty men to hatch world dominating plots in dank caves; Sex And Lucia taught me a lot of Spanish words for naughty bits; All About My Mother showed me that we’d better shoot more of Barcelona than Pedro did; The Commitments reminded me that non-technical actors can still deliver memorable and funny performances; The Mexican and Bandits showed me that the critics can be wrong; Spy Kids taught me that there’s no shame in making a movie for kids; K-19 introduced me to the concept that accents are not always a good idea; Tadpole alerted me to Robert Iler’s promising career and A Hard Days Night let me know that I’ve got my work cut out to try and improve on what still remains one of the all time great music movies.
As I said. Tomorrow I’m back to work.
SAGRADA FAMILIA
The Sagrada Familia, Barcelona?s unfinished cathedral, is its most notable landmark and the last work designed by its revered architectural son Antoni Gaudi who became so obsessed by his work that he reputedly lived in a shack on the building site dressed, according to my guide book, like a tramp. That Gaudi?s work can leave you a bit confused is typified by the fact that the same guide book mentions that he met his death outside the cathedral when he was hit by a tram on his way to pick up his suit from the dry cleaners! Ah, those Euro tramps – will it be the Hugo Boss or the Armani today?
So in 1926, when Gaudi and the number 37 from the station had their fateful collision, the cathedral was not so much incomplete as hardly started. Only one of the cathedral?s renowned towers was finished and the rest of the building was but a collection of sketches and models which were subsequently destroyed by anarchists. Despite the lack of hard information as to what Gaudi had planned the building has continued and 76 years later the place is still surrounded by cranes and scaffolding.
It?s difficult to say how far the enthusiastic Gaudi-fans have got but I can only conclude that Gaudi?s vision will not be clearly realised for much of the new work seems at odds with his opening gambit – the impressive eastern facade, the Portal of Passion, which seems like a quartet of huge dripping candles that have flowed over dusty wine bottles. It is Grimm-like and full of incongruities. For example in the midst of its gothic cragginess is a fanciful stone tree complete with doves – and if that isn?t incongruous enough on top of the tree is a red cross which, swear to God, must have been made from an old air raid siren or a couple of truck housings welded together. Eclectic doesn?t begin to describe what?s going on here.
The west wall consists of 4 more recently constructed copies of Gaudi?s original tower which, with age, will presumably match the originals. But in front of these new towers is a massive five arched portico, the Portal of Nativity, which is your first hint that things might have gotten out of hand. The lintels under the first, second, fourth and fifth arches are straight – and any Gaudi fan will tell you that he abhorred straight lines as he argued they didn?t exist in nature. Between the second and third towers is a massive window which is rendered in the style of his amazing apartment buildings. Evocative? Yes. Gaudiesque? Certainly. In keeping with the rest of the design? Pass. The still in construction apse is wondrous and again Gaudiesque but feels like a simplified, late twentieth century synthesis of his work. A whole cathedral in this style would be marvelous but sandwiched between the eight towers it seems incongruous and cheap. Perhaps Gaudi would have approved – his towers bear no resemblance to the north wall which had been started and then abandoned before he took over the job.
But who cares? Certainly not the tourists who eagerly fork out their euros to take a gawp inside. I bet the Bishop is praying he?ll get a similar turn out for one of his sermons when the red ribbon finally gets sliced. And while I wonder whether we should try and finish Schubert?s unfinished symphony and make movies of ideas that Kubrick never got around to shooting the one hour photo places and lap-top hard drives will be working overtime to churn out the snaps of Beryl and the kids smiling in front of the cathedral and perhaps that?s every architect?s dream true: the common man and his wife marveling at his genius.
S Club – The Movie – August 3, 2002
Watch your language!…It’s been a tough week full of scouting, casting, watching tapes, more scouting, and making decisions. With a shock I realise that I have been examining the minutiae of the picture with such intensity that now I need to take a step back and decide whether the look and the tone of the picture is going in the right direction. Luckily I will get the chance as I fly back to LA tomorrow for a few days break before we scout the US leg and I finally get to meet the band.
But why, I ask myself, has it been so intense? and I realise that language has something to do with it as we are working on a bi-lingual picture. Most of the crew are Spanish and few of us English or Americans speak their tongue. I remember the shame of directing Johnny Halliday, the Elvis of France, in Paris some years back and the entire crew, Johnny included, had to speak English because my French was so appalling; on one embarrassing occasion Johnny even had to act as my interpreter. Here in Spain it is even worse as I speak only about three words of Spanish and so the crew have to discuss everything with me and amongst themselves in English so I know what’s going on. But however good the crew’s English is, and it’s universally VERY good, some of the short-hand is missing and it requires more concentration to make sure that everyone understands what I want – or what I think I want. So, in a vain effort to show some solidarity, I’m trying to pick up some Spanish and Nike, my assistant, has bought me the Berlitz Spanish Vocabulary Book.
Once upon a time there was a Monty Python sketch in which the Pythons were learning phrases from a guide book and of course most of them were laughably useless; my favourite being: “My hovercraft is full of eels!” So, to show solidarity with our cheerful Spaniard crew, and demonstrate my grasp of their tongue, I am learning the following two phrases which the Berlitz book helpfully provides. 1: “El misil que habia sideo derribado esparcio escombros sobre un area extensa.” and 2: “El concierto de Pink Floyd se emitio en directo desde Venecia?”
If, like me, you are not bi-lingual let me translate for you. #1 means: “The missile, which has been shot down, scattered debris over a wide area.” Pretty useful for chatting up the birds that one! And #2: “Was the Pink Floyd concert broadcast live from Venice?” I’m sure the S-Club lot will be very impressed!
Confusingly the book, which as you’ll recall is for English speaking people trying to habla a bit of espanol, also provides you with the phrase for, “Portuguese spoken here.” But why? Early on the book gives you key words for various vocabulary topics and I note that a surprising touch of cynicism seems to have crept into the language learning industry. The first word they teach you for Love and Marriage is affair – the first word for Birth and Children is abortion!
And so I admire every one of my crew who, unlike me, were not born into an English speaking family. I can get work just by being employable – they have to have a great resume and be fluent in English as well before they get the gig. And just think on this fellow mono-linguists. Nike, my aforementioned assistant, is German and is consequently speaking most of the day in 2 languages of which neither is her native tongue!
I will leave you with: “No soy muy bueno para los idiomas, pero mi hermana es dotada para las lenguas.” which I think means “My Spanish is awful but my sister is a cunning linguist.”
S Club – The Movie – July 26, 2002
Day off in London.
650 am…Overslept, threw a few clothes and my shiny new Spanish Vocabulary Handbook into the carry-on, and raced downstairs in a pointless blur of impatience as the cab I’d ordered is 15 minutes late. I have a gig in London tomorrow night (a real one with guitars and musicians) and production has kindly let me out of school for the day.
1030am…Landed in London with a large British Airways breakfast swilling around in my belly and very frustrated because I couldn’t finish the quick crossword in the paper – two hours of pencil chewing and I still had four clues unanswered which reminds me of my favourite clue of all time: Diddley (guitar player), two letters starting with B.
1215pm…I’ve had a cuppa in Chiswick and a quick shower, made some calls and I’m now in a mini-cab on the way to Soho doing a phone interview with my old university magazine. Originally I was supposed to be here on holiday at this time but SClub has changed all that so I’m fitting a weeks holiday plans into 48 hours.
1pm…Like a character from a Ludlum novel I’m standing on the north side of the little hut in the middle of Soho Square waiting to meet a girl with dirty blonde hair and a rucksack full of cameras (her description). Unfortunately I’m not about to receive a top secret package that will thrust me into a world of intrigue and danger in which I will battle merciless villains and find myself tempted by scantily clad double agents (or is that how the next 8 weeks will develop?)…my assignation is with a photographer who will snap the pix for the university magazine article. She picks a deserted alleyway for the shoot and I quickly realise we’re in the same spot where Bowie posed many years under the KWest sign for the Ziggy Stardust album cover. Cool!
130pm…Grabbing a sandwich from a deli on Old Compton Street I am accosted by a man with a plastic bag. “Ere! Are you Nigel Dick?” Who wants to know? Maybe I am in a Ludlum novel after all.
215pm…It’s uncommonly hot and sunny in London today, I’m wearing a suit (explanation ahead) and I can feel the sweat starting to drip down my back. Whenever the sun shines in London the place goes mad. Cleavages can be seen everywhere, tight T-shirts reveal chubby bellybuttons and spare tyres, there’s even vast expanses of leg on view…and that’s just the men. I meet Matt who will be our post production supervisor and we retire to a swanky bar for cokes and talk shop – how are we going to do the special effects, how will we treat the film, how complex will the mix be?
315pm…and I’m walking down Conduit Street to meet with the bond company. Now, as we’ll be shooting a stylish action, thriller, comedy, musical, you’ll be assuming that the bond company checks how much Bond there is in the script. Nubile babes? Check. Exotic foreign locales? Check. Cunning stunts? Check. Helicopter shots? Check. Evil men with bald heads? Er…will I do? Check. Sadly the bond company is officially interested in none of these things. They want to know if I can shoot the movie in the time allowed and what my thoughts are on the post schedule as they insure that, come hell or high water, the film will be completed on time and on budget. Now you know what a completion bond is.
415pm…I’m criss-crossing Soho for the third time today to meet with our editor Mark, a cheerful chap who, after editing a thousand episodes of the TV series, knows far more about SClub than I ever will. The meeting at the bond company, which was why I was wearing my suit, was unbearably hot as the sun pounded through the large, closed windows and there was a power cut in the building – as I sit here over a cup of tea the a/c kicks in and a shivver runs down my back.
515pm…Standing on Oxford Street waving my hands like a madman trying to catch a cab. Last weekend I rode my bike into the northern suburbs of Barcelona only to get a massive puncture which I couldn’t repair. As I walked back towards town with my wounded velo the cab drivers drove past refusing to give me a ride. Today my bad luck continues – it appears Chiswick is too far to venture on a sunny Friday afternoon. I smile, as another glob of perspiration drips down my back, I’m travelling the world, I’m making a movie, the sun is out and the weekend is in front of me. Sod the cabbies – life is good.
S Club – The Movie – July 21, 2002
This week we’re scouting for locations.
This is possibly the most exciting and purely joyful part of film-making – every thing is before us and there’s nothing but excitement and promise in the air. About eight of us are driving up and down the Spanish coast looking for places where we can shoot our SClub story. It’s fun because, for the moment, we’re quite relaxed and we get to visit all kinds of wonderful places, we get to eat for free and there’s only the hint of the tension that the following weeks will bring. This is also a very important bonding period before the tough days that lie ahead.
Normally this is the time where the key members of the crew get to know each other, sound each other out about ideas and find out about each other’s strengths, weaknesses, foibles and eating habits. This movie is different as all the key players have been making a series for SClub here in Spain for many months. The only new person is me!
S Club – The Movie – July 17, 2002
It’s dawn on July 17th 2002, the Pyrenees are somewhere below me and soon I shall be landing in Barcelona Spain home of Gaudi, Salvador Dali and SCLUB! The gods have smiled upon me once again and I’ve been picked from a cast of thousands to make the journey east to direct a movie for TV’s favourite pop sensation – SCLUB.
Who knows what the following weeks and months hold in store – but why don’t you join me, your humble directing servant, as I traverse oceans and continents, put life and limb on the line and expose myself to all kinds of abuse just to get Jo, Hannah, Tina, Bradley, Rachel and Jon up onto the big screen where they belong?
SUFFER THE CHILDREN
We’re all damaged in some way or another and who can tell how our lives would be different if our childhoods had enjoyed a different path. I have just finished reading The Bureau and The Mole, an efficient account of FBI agent Robert Hanssen?s vast and continuous betrayal of American Secrets that lead to his sentencing to life imprisonment this week. David A. Vise, the author, concludes that if Hanssen’s father had not been the abusive family figure who failed to ever encourage his son then maybe Hanssen Jnr would never have felt the need to flaunt authority in later life with such damaging results. The book states that because the Russians were handed information by Hanssen that revealed American plans and procedures for survival after nuclear attack the Russians realised they could win a Nuclear War! From a Russian standpoint the theory of Mutually Assured Destruction was irrelevant. Distill this information into its simplest form and you get: Man beats child – Russians believe Nuclear War winnable.
This week the Israelis and the Palestinians are still slogging it out. We (the US and the UK) are still lobbing grenades in caves in Afghanistan. On the Indian and Pakistani borders a million troops are massing pissed off at each other and ready to fight. This weekend the Colombians are having a General Election in which one of the candidates is espousing all out war against the terrorists who plague his land.
And then I read this sobering quote from this week’s Time Magazine from the director of Gaza City’s psychiatric hospital: “We don’t have a single child in Gaza who knows what it?s like to be a normal child.”
How many future Stalins and Hitlers and Hanssens are we breeding at this very moment? May the peacemakers win and may the warmongers fail.
SOGGY BOTTOMS
Miami blows. The wind comes from every direction and it has been both a blessing and a curse over the last 10 days we have been here. As you sit outside in the warm clammy evening the constant breeze makes your al fresco dining experience a delight. At this time of year there?s no need to ever worry about wearing more than a T-shirt, shorts and sandals. However from a cycling point of view its been a nightmare. I?ve completed three rides during my stay and it has seemed that whether I have been travelling north, south, east or west the wind has always been in my face.
Perhaps this should have been a warning to us. We?d flown in to shoot Diana King?s ?Summer Breezin??, a great song in which the lyrics mention ?chillin? in de sand? a number of times. It was therefore decided that Miami was the perfect location for the video and we soon picked North Beach, Crandon Park in Key Biscayne as our location. As always my shot list was ambitious but, after a few hiccups, we hit the ground running on Tuesday morning and it looked like we were going to get it all in the can.
All afternoon I?d been watching a large black cloud which came close by and then passed to the North, but then, just like it had on my bike rides, the wind changed direction and the cloud came rampaging towards us and just before 5 the first spots appeared. Within minutes we were all sheltering under the pop-up tents laughing at how hard it was falling. We could see it was clearing ahead so we waited it out but clearly, as the minutes dragged on, the cloud was either hovering over us or going around in circles. Then, impossibly the rain got heavier. We laughed more and started telling our rain-during-shoot stories – a competition which Ramsey Nickell our DP won hands down with a story from a Wayne Isham shoot in New Orleans.
Ramsey and I shelter from the pouring rain…what to do?
After an hour it was obvious we needed to think about plan B. We scouted the beach-side area for any kind of cover and discovered a drab, hexagonal aluminium hut in the middle of a soggy patch of ground between the beach and the parking lot that could possibly be dressed into a set. The rain was by now so torrential that we were all soaked to the skin and there were massive puddles three inches and more deep on the beach and in the parking lot. Night was falling and someone suggested another option – The Rusty Pelican, a dining establishment a few miles up the street. We clambered into the van to go check it out and were amazed to find the traffic moving slowly single file along the road between the two lanes – the torrent was causing flooding so severe the drains were overloaded. The Rusty Pelican had some useful angles but it was full of diners and we?d have to wait hours before we could get in and shoot there – the a.c. was cranked so high inside that we were all shivering and everyone was happy to get back outside into the rain.
We raced back to the set. Perhaps we could wait for the morning and, if the label would cough up the cash, we could carry on with the shoot then. It had been raining for over three hours now and three inches had fallen in the last hour. As a precaution we started dressing our hexagonal hut while the producers hit their calculators and the phones. In the gale and the darkness the gear was pulled off the beach and the art department performed a miracle in the hut.
A decision was made. There was no shooting tomorrow – we had to finish tonight. I tore up my sodden shot-list and we improvised. As the last extra came out of make-up and wardrobe and as the final tweaks were made to the lighting the rain stopped! It had been falling in sheets for over five hours.
You?ll see the vid on MTV shortly I hope and you?ll wonder what all the fuss was about. There?ll be some holes in the story I planned but everyone will be smiling, Diana will look gorgeous and it will all feel like summer fun and only we will know that everyone behind the camera was soaked to the skin!
FERRARI FARCE
Like most people with their head stuck firmly up their arse I see the events of the world as a peculiar reflection of my own life – you can call it conceit, or vanity or being self centred but I?m probably the only person in the world who sees the Formula One motor racing championship as a lightning rod for events in his own career. Depending on the success or failure of my last directing gig I wonder if I’m perceived as an Eddie Irvine (past his prime, overpaid, full of excuses) or a Michael Schumacher (a God, a genius, the master, worth every penny). Truth is I?m probably the rock video equivalent of David Coulthard – consistent, determined, diligent, hard-working, polite, always a threat but, let?s face it, never likely to be world champion. I?m a big fan of David?s because I feel our careers follow similar paths. OK so I?m not shagging gorgeous leggy models, I?m not a millionaire and I don?t live in Monaco but I?m working on it!
This year the pundits have maligned David because he hasn?t performed the way he was expected to despite the fact that his car is obviously seriously underpowered. The guy on Speed Channel even suggested that he was a simply hopeless driver who should never have been given a Formula One car to drive. Quite an accusation for a man who?s been on the podium more than 50 times and has accumulated more F1 points than Jackie Stewart!
As you can see I?m passionate about F1 which brings us to another driver who?s been derided a lot recently – Rubens Barrichello. (I?m not a fan by the way). Despite some bad luck, Barrichello has driven incredibly well the last few F1 races and Schumacher, the Michael Jordan, the Tiger Woods of F1 has had to really pull his finger out to beat Barichello in qualifying. In Austria last week, Barrichello won pole and Schumacher could only get third on the grid! That showed ?em all – go Rubens!
Then came the scandal. Rubens lead the race easily, and on the final lap pulled over at the last moment to let Schumacher win! The crowd booed, and turned their thumbs down – F1 fans around the world were apoplectic with rage. The Ferrari bosses had told Barrichello to pull over and, having just been signed up for another 2 years for a boatload of cash no doubt, Barrichello felt duty bound to obey. It?s happened before but never with such shameless regard for the sport. The excuse Ferrari used (despite Schumacher?s monstrous lead in this year?s championship) is that maybe he?ll need the points to stay in the lead later in the season. Despite having the fastest car this year Ferrari might as well put punctures in everyone else?s tyres just to be sure of winning. And why is it all so important? Money and sponsorship of course. Imagine the furore if some world class golfer, with the same sponsor as Tiger Woods, purposefully punted his ball into the rough when he was inches from the pin so that Tiger could slip into first place.
Ferrari, you screwed up. My conclusion goes like this: Barrichello comes first, Schumacher wins, Ferrari loses.
POSTSCRIPT…Having been summoned to Paris On June 26th Ferrari, Schumacher and Barrichello were fined a total of $1 million for breach of podium ettiquette.
AWARDS
I don?’ get it. No Man’s Land was a better movie than Amelie?
No Man’s Land certainly addressed an important subject but Amelie was better written, better shot, better acted (Simon Callow was at his worst in NML don’t you think?), better directed and was more surprising and certainly more entertaining. Even the Oscar campaign was better. That Amelie, which should have been nominated for and could have won Best Picture of the Year, lost out only goes to devalue the wonderful and much deserved victories for Halle Berry and Denzel Washington.
And don?t get me started on A Beautiful Mind…
STUMBLE IN THE JUNGLE
I don?t often get political but I do wish to stand up and be counted on this one.
Like all nations the people of Zimbabwe deserve free elections. What has been taking place in Zimbabwe under Mugabe?s oppressive regime is a mockery of Democracy. Mugabe should simply declare openly that he is a dictator and wishes to stay in control and have done with it. Quite obviously he covets power and is terrified that, given the option, the people of Zimbabwe would get rid of him. What is it about the human condition that makes us so selfish and egocentric that we think that entire countries should bow to our whims and personal needs? And what is it about the human condition that enslaves so many of us to follow the orders of men who think only of themselves?
I hope against hope that reason will prevail.
CREAM & SUGAR
Those of you who know me or have read my diary in the past will know I have two obsessions: cycling and recycling. What you may not know is that I have a third obsession which borders on a major addiction – an addiction so strong that no amount of rehab or electric shock therapy in my nether regions could ever cure me. I admit here in public that I am addicted to and obsessed by McDonalds.
Most weekends I go on a long bike ride and then make my way to the local Mickey D?s drive through for a Big Mac, one apple pie, a coke and a small coffee. As I sit in my car at the drive-through speaker-phone I find myself involved in the usual pantomime. ?How many creams and sugars with the coffee?? To this question I always give the same reply: ?Two creams and one sugar, please.?
Today I visited the popular food emporium and the drama played itself out as per usual. As I approached the second window and forked over $5.70 the cashier repeated my order back to me. So far so good. At the third window the attendant asked me again: ?How many creams and sugars?? And once again I replied: ?Two creams and one sugar, please.?
At which point she delved into her bin of condiments and gave me EIGHT creams and TEN sugars!
As per usual I insisted the attendant took back the surplus coffee enhancing products and I swear, though I can?t be completely sure, she dropped the lot in the bin. Did I forget to mention she also gave me a really resentful look and rolled her eyes? This happens to me every week.
It might seem petty but let?s do the Math. McDonalds signs read BILLIONS SERVED (Let?s assume it?s a conservative one billion for the purposes of our experiment). Let?s also assume that 20% of those orders included one cup of coffee which equates to 200 million orders of coffee. If today?s ridiculous waste of cream and sugar were typical then that means McDonalds have needlessly trashed 1,800,000,000 sugars and 1,200,000,000 cartons of half and half. This equates to roughly 23,000 tons of sugar and 3,125,000 gallons of cream. (The sugar sachets seem to weigh 1/2 an ounce and it takes 48 cream containers to fill a pint jug).
I?m making a guess here but I?m betting that 98% of the people reading this either work at McDonalds, will work at McDonalds or will eat at McDonalds some-time in their lifetime. And while I have to admit that driving to the Drive-through and buying food in throw-away containers is not exactly practicing what I preach just think of the difference we could make if we either (as workers at Micky D?s) gave people what they asked for or (as customers) returned the surplus we didn?t need.
I?m dreaming again aren?t I?
SHAVED LEGS
Why do cyclists shave their legs? I know that this is a question which has been on your mind a lot so I thought I?d let you in on the secret.
Yesterday I wound up in the hospital. While cycling I?d been driven into by a man in an SUV and, deprived of my balance, my shoulder and then the rest of me collided rather messily with a typical piece of LA tarmac travelling at approximately 20mph. Everyone who was there agrees on the result of the collision: SUV 1, cyclist 0.
As I lay alone and bleeding in ER, stripped of my dignity and my rather eye-catching and fully matching Italian Alessio Wheels cycling kit, I wondered if my dream of scaling some Alpine passes, Jalabert style, would still be possible this coming summer. As the minutes ticked onwards and the aches and pains spread outwards I realised a more realistic assessment would be to focus on whether I would be able to bend over to put my underwear, socks and shorts back on when I was discharged.
After the form-filling and the contract-signing the X-rays were finally taken and the bandages were applied. The good news was that no bones appeared to have been broken – the bad news was that I was covered with a substantial amount of U.S.B. Type VII gauze up and down the left side of my body held in place by some very efficient sticky tape.
After making a phone call your rather subdued correspondent was picked up by itinerant friend in need, Brian, who had a good laugh at the image of a semi-naked rider shivvering and bandaged in a corner of the Waiting Room.
So, 24 hours have passed and the pain continues but of course the dressings have to be changed – and so all that effective sticky tape has to be pulled off taking fistfuls of manly leg and arm hair with it. OUCH!
Why do cyclists shave their legs? Not because it makes them faster (it doesn?t). Not because they all take part in cross-dressing competitions every night after a group sprint (maybe they do – perhaps this is cycling?s dirty little secret!) No. The reason cyclists shave their legs is so that it?s easier to clean the wounds and less painful to remove the dressings when they get into the sort of human being versus tarmac contre-temps which I experienced yesterday.
Of course I?m not a professional cyclist. I don?t race across half of Europe at an average speed a small car would be proud to achieve. I don?t push myself up to 40 mph on the flat or touch 60mph on the downhills. But now I?ve had a good man-tarmac experience I?m wondering if perhaps the razor blade and the shaving gel are going to get a look at my limbs. So, if you see me wearing shorts and my legs look suspiciously hairless you?ll know I?ve finally taken the plunge and become a ?serious? cyclist.
There again I might just have entered an amateur cross-dressing contest!
THE PRINCESS & THE BOY WITH SILVER BOOTS
Once upon a time there was a Princess and a boy with red and white stripey socks, permed hair, an earring and silver boots.
According to the papers the Princess was having an affair with a handsome young man who owned a restaurant and one night she went to dine there along with a tall man from California who was very famous and had once written many hit songs. The boy with silver boots worked at the restaurant and was asked to wait upon the Princess, her boyfriend, the tall man from California and his wife. The boy with silver boots was told to address the Princess as Ma?am and not to speak unless spoken to.
A special menu had been prepared in the Princess?s honour and the restaurant was filled with invited guests. Dour men with bulges under their jackets sat in the corners of the restaurant and said nothing and ate no food all night. It seemed that the Princess was not very hungry either and the tall man from California only wanted to eat ice cream. At one point the Princess asked the boy with silver boots what subject he was studying at University. ?Architecture, Ma?am,? he replied. ?My husband was an architect,? she said and changed the subject.
The day after the Princess visited the restaurant her boyfriend gave the boy with silver boots a big fat tip and he went and bought a Led Zeppelin album with the money. Many years later the boy with silver boots read an autobiography by the tall man from California in which he discussed at length his terrible addiction to heroin. Heroin addicts eat a lot of ice-cream.
I don?t wear silver boots anymore and I don?t have any hair to perm.
Princess Margaret died last week, she was 71.
HAMBURGER
Once upon a time me and my friend Juliana had to go to Detroit to see Extreme play a gig just so we could talk about the video we were hoping to make for them. And as a result found ourselves standing beside the stage watching the band they were touring with – a band whose grasp of the niceties of songwriting were legendary, a band whose subtle haircuts were much admired, a band who were enjoying extraordinary success at that time. I am of course referring to those much missed Gods of Rock: Warrant.
As Juliana and I stood in the wings Jani Lane, the lead singer, rushed off stage so that the guitarists could wave their EAT ME inscribed guitars at the eager girls in the front row, and so that Jani could towel himself down and take a moments rest before resuming his swaggering rock singer duties.
Now you?d think that any guy in tight pants and a T-shirt standing onstage in front of 3,000 screaming fans with a rock band behind him would be having the time of his life wouldn?t you? So imagine my surprise when I overheard this conversation between Jani and my friend Juliana…
Jani Lane: ?Hey Juliana, good to see you! ?
Juliana: ?You too Jani, how?s it goin???
Jani Lane: ?Dreadful!?
Juliana: ?Really. Why??
Jani Lane: ?This tour?s a mess: we didn?t get any rehearsal time, the dates are too far apart, we?ve got no support on the road, we?re not selling out anywhere and we?re losing money fast. I?ve complained to management but they don?t seem to care. At the rate we?re going I?ll be flipping burgers for a living again inside 2 years!?
He wiped his face once more, took a swig of water, bade Juliana farewell and pranced back on stage, grabbed the mic and yelled: ?DETROIT F*CKING ROCKS!? The crowd of course went berserk and I went home with a renewed respect for a man who was prepared to keep on going even though he could see the wheels starting to falling off his wagon.
Fast forward a few years to the Trash Talk section of this month?s Spin magazine: ?From our Hair Metal Casualty Of The Month file: We hear former Warrant lead singer Jani Lane is down on his luck and running the kitchen at a Cleveland bar…?
Oh dear.
MR. WONDERFUL
I remember the feeling well – I was in trouble and there was no escape. I was 12 years old and standing in the living room of a small house in Cyprus as my mother read my school report. The Reverend D.C. Argyle, who lectured me in Divinity, had landed me right in it. His assessment of my year?s work consisted of just three words: ?Should try harder.? The rest of my report card might as well have been blank, these three words would come to haunt me and would be used as evidence against me in the long list of crimes and misdemeanours that my Mother was compiling for herself. Which brings us to the Paris – Dakkar rally.
A few nights ago I was sitting in my chair at home watching on TV the highlights of the rally that is known for its extraordinarily harsh conditions and its lengthy and grueling stages which incidentally this year started not in Paris, but Arras. Just to complete this rally is a remarkable achievement. Not for these guys the chi-chi world of the Formula 1 Johnnies with their air-conditioned motorhomes – rally drivers and riders need to be down-to-earth and tough. The previous day?s stage involved over 900 km of bumping, crashing, digging and driving and had terminated at a rest area where the riders and drivers, too tired to erect tents, slept on the tarmac in their clothes before being woken up at 12am to dice with death all over again.
Curiously most of the drivers and riders on the Paris-Dakkar seem to be French, German or Japanese. There?s an occasional Italian, Fin, Brit, South African and not a single Sherman in sight. The rally is also known for its lack of sexual bias – last years winner was a woman, Jutta Kleinschmidt, who is held in such high esteem in her home country Germany that in 2001 she was voted their most popular sports-person beating Michael Schumacher, 3 time F1 world-champion and highest paid sportsman in the world, into second place!
However it was not the neat, blonde, determined, well-spoken Jutta who caught my eye, and it wasn?t the petite, dark and very attractive Vanina Ickx, daughter of Formula One great Jackie Ickx, who sparked my interest. Nor was it the winner of the days motorcycle stage who reached 180 kph on his machine as he raced over the desert (just think about that for a second 112 mph on ROCKS on a motorcycle! Oh yeah did I mention that you have to navigate for yourself too? The Dakkar rally motorcycles have impressive GPS powered heads-up displays and other gizmos constantly scrolling in a cluster above the handlebars – er, how do you read that when you?re doing the ton across the desert?) And it wasn?t the impressive rally-leader, Hiroshi Masuoka, who fascinated me either, but another Japanese, a rider called Tasatoshi Tamura.
Tamura is tall for a Japanese man and good-looking in a lead guitarist sort of way and he is what is known on the Paris-Dakkar as a privateer. Your Kleinschmidts and your Masuokas are drivers for large teams with massive funding and impressive technical support. Before the rest day this week Masuoka drove his truck as hard and as fast as he possibly could, mindless of the damage he was causing it. ?It doesn?t matter if I wreck it,? he said, ?Tomorrow?s a rest day so the mechanics will have 24 hours to rebuild it!? His gamble paid off and he won the stage by 5 minutes, pushing him yet further into the lead. But Tamura, as a privateer, has no such support and when his bike got stuck in the sand he had no-one to help him out.
The stage I was watching was 383 km long and stretched across some of the loneliest and most grueling territory planet earth has to offer: rocky slopes, precipitous tracks, mountainous sand dunes and wandering camels! We were traveling between Zouerat and Atar in Mauritania and the temperatures had risen to 40 degrees centigrade. Basically we were in the Sahara – a place where the BBC World weather forecast programme has one word permanently fixed to the map: HOT!
Now, when I used to work as a motorcycle messenger in London I occasionally dropped my bike. For those of you not conversant with biking talk that means I fell off! As you?re lying on the street you establish that nothing important, like an arm or a leg, is broken then you salvage your pride and try and lift your bike up off the street – and anything larger than a 250 is a bastard to lift – then you kick-start the thing and attempt to drive away. Even on a chilly day in London in the rain this routine will leave you breathless and sweaty.
Well Tamura was in trouble, he was wearing leathers, he was in 40 degree heat and he was getting stuck in the dunes and falling off his bike time and time again. He smiled at the camera, looked at the sun and saddled up and tried again. The team riders were being helped by their team-mates, Tamura was a privateer, he was on his own and he wouldn?t give up. The team riders, when in difficulty, yelled and cursed and they shouted at their buddies for help – Tamura said nothing.
And here?s the kicker, Tamura never says anything – HE?S DEAF AND DUMB!
I wondered: what is this Japanese man, helmeted and be-leathered, a kind of Oriental two-thirds version of Tommy, doing in the friggin? Sahara desert up to his knees in sand trying to race his motorbike in a competition he has no hope of winning? This, I thought, is a windmill-tilting endeavour of such optimism that even Sisyphus would be speechless.
And again and again Tamura just kept on fighting and at last he made it to the bivouac. The leading riders had finished in daylight, Tamura arrived in the dark and he was smiling! They asked him how his day had been and in reply he pulled out a small device the size of a calculator.
Tamura grinned as he pressed the keys on his little device and then pointed its LCD at the camera. There was an indecipherable Japanese character and underneath its English translation: WONDERFUL.
Tamura is a bloody genius, he?s got it all figured out. He?s already got a mountain to climb every day as he moves through his soundless and speechless world and, as if this wasn?t enough, he then finds the energy and the cash to ship a motorcycle to Africa so he can drag it through the desert in a race he has no hope of winning but in a competition in which he is always the champion. And at the end of this incredible day of toil and sweat his inscrutability is condensed into one perfect word: WONDERFUL.
That night I found myself looking at my old school photo and there, sitting behind a 12 year-old, innocent version of myself was the Reverend Argyle in his dog collar. And from beyond the grave his 3 word mantra came back to me not to haunt me but as an inspiration: SHOULD TRY HARDER.
RETURN TO HO CHI MINH CITY – VIETNAM – DAY TWELVE – 2ND JANUARY
I had been dreading our return to HCMC for the past few days, not because it represented the end of my holiday in Vietnam, but because I had unfinished business there. I had put something in motion that now had to be resolved and the question remained: was I man enough to complete what I had started?
A few days earlier we had rolled in HCMC full of excitement, this after all was the ground zero of the Vietnam War and the American Embassy, the location of that Miss Saigon moment, was right across the street from our hotel. We quickly convened in the hotel lobby and ventured out into the clammy evening and drank in the warm soggy air and the sights. Someone in our party suggested a drink at the famous Rex Hotel and so it was that destiny lead us past a T-shirt stall on a piazza close to the Notre Dame Cathedral. My eye instantly caught the cool Ho Chi Minh T-shirts: a snip at a mere 30,000 Dong ($2 US) apiece. I bought three and was accosted by a young girl who smiled, called me ?no hair? (baldness is unusual in Vietnam) and tried to sell me postcards and an obviously counterfeit copy of Graham Greene?s The Quiet American a novel set in the early 50?s in Vietnam or rather Indochine as it then was.
Not wanting to ape my fellow travelers, some of whom were reading the book, I resisted at first but the girl?s winning smile and persistence wore me down and I decided to buy the novel. As I handed over another 30,000 Dong I asked her name. ?Phuong,? she replied and turned to seek another buyer. Safely ensconced in the rooftop bar at the Rex we ordered cocktails and sat back – life was good.
Later that night as I settled into bed I decided to put aside my historical novel and reacquaint myself with Greene?s classic novel of political intrigue – now I was here in Saigon what better time to start the book? Half-way down the first page Fowler, the lead character, introduces us to a Vietnamese girl over whom he and Pyle (the quiet American) will squabble – her name is Phuong. I smiled at the co-incidence and read on.
The next morning we drove out to see the Cu Chi tunnels, the site of one the American Army?s most frustrating defeats. Despite the mountainous pile of explosives utilized, the bulldozers, the highly trained dogs, the systematic flooding, the defoliant and the tunnel rats the GI?s had failed to roust the VC insurgents from the area: they had simply burrowed their way like moles from Cambodia to Saigon! I was cranky, my fellow travelers were annoying me and the barbaric display of simply effective and almost medieval weapons employed by the VC turned my stomach inside out – I wanted to get back to HCMC.
In the afternoon we scoured the streets for more souvenirs. We sat in a tiny cafe off Ngyuen Dinh Chieu and ruminated on fate as we ignored a crippled beggar shuffling by and sipped our sugary, warm sodas frightened of what the local ice would do to us. If not for the accident of birth we too might have been begging for worthless bills damaged by some distant war fought over long forgotten ideals. We finished our drinks and returned to the T-shirt stall to stock up with presents and there was Phuong again bright-eyed and smiling trying to sell me more of her postcards. I told her she shared the same name as the Quiet American?s Vietnamese girl. ?Yes, I know that,? she replied and blushed.
As we walked back to our hotel a fog of gloom descended upon me and I found myself becoming more and more confused, By the time I?d reached my room I was ready to explode. The vicious devices in the tunnels, the beggar I?d ignored on the street, the happy faces of the children who called at us everywhere had all come to haunt me. I felt guilt. I had to do something – but what? I had no children but if I had a daughter I?d want her to be like Phuong: bright, funny, cheeky, industrious, cute. It was ridiculous I had cash in the bank. Surely I could help.
I sought advice. I didn?t want to try throwing money at a problem I couldn?t solve. I didn?t want to do something inappropriate but I felt an enormous powerful force pushing me onwards and my impulsive reaction was not to be denied, I could not be talked down. It was agreed that maybe there was some educational help I could offer. Phuong?s self taught English was excellent and she told us that she spoke some Japanese and French too – clearly she was no fool. We decided I should go and find Phuong and ask her mother if there was some help that could be offered.
I hurried back through the streets. It seemed that everyone was watching me and that they all knew my plan and thought I was nuts, but I didn?t care. I felt good. I was doing something positive at last – this was the butterfly effect I always talked about, what sequence of events might I be putting into gear here?
I found Phuong again and asked her to translate as I explained to her mother what now seemed to be an utterly ridiculous scheme. Her mother distrusted me and watched the tourists in the square – there was money to be made out there and I was slowing business down. I felt I was interfering, who was I to play the hand of God? But it was too late I?d already asked them to think of something Phuong might want to study – I?d be back in HCMC later in the week, we could discuss it then. As my interview stumbled to a close I noticed a man in Vietnamese Army green with a communist party ID card on his chest approaching. He tried to take Phuong?s books and post-cards. Phuong?s mother nonchalantly pulled them back – part of a half-hearted charade played out every day on the square it seemed. But the man looked coldly into my eyes, things were getting ugly and, feigning nonchalance, I walked away.
My imagination was running wild and I dared not look back. Maybe the man from the square was following me. Perhaps Phuong and her mother were being roughly hustled into a van as I fled. What was I thinking? I?d tried to salve my guilt, had tried to help and had put them in harm?s way. I was completely out of my depth – it seemed I had found myself in a whole new chapter of Greene?s novel. As I returned to the hotel I looked over my shoulder – the boulevard was full of cyclos and mopeds as usual. No-one was lurking in the shadows, I was being overdramatic but I felt sick to my stomach. I?d poked my nose where it didn?t belong. I?d tried to put my silly liberal ideas into action and it made me feel sick.
I took a shower and prepared for dinner. The reckless euphoria I?d felt an hour ago when the scheme first occurred to me had been replaced by stomach churning regret. Outside the hotel we climbed into a cab and I tried to relax…and then it happened.
As the cab nosed out into the busy thoroughfare its headlights illuminated a typical Vietnamese city scene: a vast throng of people all hurrying on a thousand different journeys and at that instant the first Western music we?d heard in 2 weeks came over the taxi?s radio: ?Imagine there?s no heaven, it?s easy if you try…you may say I?m a dreamer, but I?m not the only one.? It was a sign, how could it be anything else? Every lyric of the song seemed breath-takingly pertinent. Perhaps I hadn?t been such an idiot after all – maybe I really could achieve something. Lennon?s plaintive voice and his incredibly optimistic lyrics filled me with hope. ?Practice senseless acts of beauty and random acts of kindness? ran the bumper sticker. It?s a daft impossible, idea but Winston O? Boogie was telling me to do it… ?it?s easy if you try.?
And so here I was returning to HCMC. The sick stomach feeling was gone but many times in the past days I seriously considered not making my Wednesday evening appointment with Phuong and her mother. It would be so easy to avoid the piazza and not show up – problem solved. But I?d started it and now I had to finish.
With my heart quaking (guilt? apprehension? English reserve? I couldn?t decide) I made my way back to the now familiar square with a liaison from our Vietnamese tour group. We found Phuong and her mother – apparently they hadn?t been arrested by my thought police – and the friendly T-shirt seller?s wife produced four of those plastic stools you see on every Vietnamese street and our conference began. I hid my face under my baseball cap – I didn?t want to call attention to myself or suggest that maybe this is what my friend Kim called an Aqualung moment (?Sitting on a park bench, eyeing little girls with bad intent…?). I let the guide do the talking. My plan seemed vaguely feasible again but Phuong?s mother put up the first road-block, she wanted cash. I?d been warned this was likely to happen and I was prepared. I said no. I wanted to help not to damage. Gradually Phuong?s story emerged.
Phuong?s father was long gone. Phuong spends her mornings at the Orphanage school in HCMC – she is sponsored by a Dutch lady who also met her on the street, visits her every year and sends her $20 on her birthday. Incredibly my kind of lightning has struck Phuong before. In the afternoon Phuong is released from school and works the streets selling postcards and books to tourists while her mother hangs in the shadows and watches out for her. They both live off Phuong?s earnings. Phuong can joke with the arrogant tourists and charm them in three languages but she can only write Vietnamese. On her right hand she has not one but two thumbs – she has a smile that would melt the coldest of hearts.
After much negotiation it has been decided that for the price of a cheap bicycle I will help her go to language school for one maybe two years. With no strings attached all Phuong has to do is show up and learn – the right of any child. If she uses her language skills to become a tour guide for Vietnam?s fast-growing tourist industry she could earn more than a doctor. Maybe she?ll just want to have kids and pass on her wit and skills – maybe she?ll do both. It?s up to her now.
POSTSCRIPT…As my plane lifts off from Hong Kong a few days later I read my earlier thoughts about colonialists and religious fanatics (diary 2001). I wonder is my gesture a genuinely decent thing or just another chapter, albeit a small one, of hypocritical western meddling in the 3rd world struggle?
Coincidentally Freddy Heineken, the guy who owned the brewery that was promoting itself when I landed in Hanoi just two weeks ago, died last night. He was 78 and had $3.6 billion in the bank. All I know is that whether you?re selling books on the street in Ho Chi Minh City or you?re the richest man in Holland one day we?ll all be equal.
POSTSCRIPT TO THE POSTCRIPT (dated June 26th)…Phuong never took up my offer of the year’s tuition. Instead I’m buying a water buffalo for a family near Hue. So much for good intentions…
The Water Buffalo I bought and its new drivers
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